>Let the NYFW Previews Begin!

6 Feb

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The shows are less than a week away and the previews are pouring in. Flattering, yes, and definitely a tad overwhelming when it comes to the planning part of the operation that’s called “NYFW”.
When Daniel Silver, 1/2 of Duckie Brown and I walked down the endless stairs from Studio 385 he got me thinking [really] about which designers REALLY ARE my favorites.
“You must have some favorites” he stated. 
“Well yes, Duckie Brown, obviously, I laughed.” 
Daniel’s question got me thinking on my way back to my car in the ChinaTown lot. Yes, I love Duckie Brown, but what else did I really care about?
The shows I look forward to seeing are the “smaller” and more “avant-garde” ones, even though they take place in New York, not Paris. As they’re in New York, they should thus be “commercial”. I’m sure my faves sell some clothes as they’re still around and not road kill on the path of “used to be” designers. What makes the ones that most intrigue me stand out is the element of surprise.
I’ve got a few preview shots of some of these shows, and in some cases just a hard copy invite to share.
On the list
Duckie Brown
Buckler
Number Lab [new to me, but I loved the invite, so I’m curious]
Toni Francesc
Jeremy Scott
Academy of Art University [there’s always a minimum of one “wow” student showing at this
Douglas Hannant

Number Lab pulled together a bunch of words that made me want to go and see for myself:  


“Taking FLIGHT // ALPINE SKI-JUMPING
Colorado AIR FORCE ACADEMY // ELEVATION
CHIAROSCURO // Zaha Hadid’s BERGISEL Structure
ENDURANCE // NORDIC SKY // ALTITUDE”


Douglas Hannant is having an event held in his honor by Geoffrey Bradfield to celebrate the launch of Douglas Hannant De Robert Piguet.
Jeremy Scott? You just never know what he has in store. I’ve been a fan since his long-ago “Walk Like An Egyptian” collection.
ANDREW BUCKLER’s theme for fall 2011 is “anonymous art” and the idea that “the urban arts and artists [use] the streets as a medium to communicate messages. Anonymous art fuels discussion as the artist questions the conventions of art.”

Spaniard Toni Toni Francesc has as his pre-show teaser: 

Phoenix: “Immortality and Renewal”

The image of a chic woman dressed in a drapey white blouse and sporting a Fedora and bright red lips doesn’t necessarily remind me of a phoenix, but that’s an outfit I’d like to wear, and that’s a great starting point.

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2 Responses to “>Let the NYFW Previews Begin!”

  1. Anonymous February 8, 2011 at 12:05 am #

    >Hi Vivian, I learn many things from the reading of "Let's the NYFW Previews Begin" I'm very new in this industry. So, who Buckie Brown is. I'm curious to know.Some words: "smaller", "avant-garde. Of course, I don't know how small/avant-garde the show it is. I've never been in any kind of fashion show! "commercial" connects with NY. But why not with Paris? "faves"… now I know what it stands for. But how sad with the "used to be" designers. Who are they? I wonder what they are going to do. Do they give up? Thank you for sharing the previews and shots.D_Lam online FSH

  2. Edited by Vivian Kelly February 8, 2011 at 10:09 pm #

    >Dear Anonymous – Glad you learned a few things from the "Previews" piece. Duckie Brown is two designers who work together seemingly as one person: my friends Daniel Silver and Steven Cox. Daniel has a killer background in TV production and Steven has designed for many big names including Tommy Hilfiger. A "smaller" show is not necessarily smaller as in fewer models, nor does it mean it is unimportant or irrelevant – it just has a smaller budget as in less $$ for Public Relations and probably little to no money to do the heavy duty expensive advertising that gets you practically guaranteed editorial coverage in the big magazines: Vogue, Harper's etc." As far as "used to be designers" a few names: Alice Roi, Angel Sanchez, Todd Oldham. Some retire altogether and some go and do lines for QVC, HSN [Bradley Bayou] and do quite nicely $$ thank you! Lots more to come. Keep reading an asking questions!

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