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FE Friend Sofia Bak Reports From The Trenches at LONDON Fashion Week: Day 1 of LFW

19 Feb


Text, Sofia Bak
Images Sourced by Vivian Kelly. from designscene.net
Up like bullet at 7, throw on Lako Bukia, Onna Ehrlich-Bell and mom’s black vintage Zorro hat. Running late for the 9am show…as always…lovely new assistant Anna Komolova saves a seat…Antoni & Alison wake everyone up with loud crazy music and a concept to switch your brain into gear…loved 1 dress…out on the street to shoot for Vogue Italia…street style photographers outnumber possible models…I finally find 1…10 more want to shoot her…mostly ended up shooting other street stylers all day…but felt like I got shot more than I shot them…it’s the blue dip dyed hair. Speaking of which…the only street style trend I’m seeing so far is coloured hair…seemed like practically everyone had a splash of colour this season. Took a break with tea & cake at Orla Kiely presentation where models were showing off outfits at a 50′s style dance…did they book the ones who could dance or teach them? Beautiful, romantic…oooh macaroons! Run in at the last minute for (friend) Francesca Marotta debut show, stunned by the Italian widows, bloody tears, great acting skills on the models and lace…lace…lace. Turned away with a seated ticket for Bora Aksu show. Weird. How did they manage to organise that?! Brilliant casting at Felder Felder, lovely to see my girl from Kiev Fashion Days - Alla Kostromichova opening...great prints and new knits. Love. Watched another brilliant fashion film by Ada Zanditon. Found incredible footwear architect Julian Hakes at the exhibitions…shot man in a Another photo by Diamondo Christofilatex woman: Pandemonia…dying by the time Jena Theo show rolled in…but loved every piece. Would buy 99% of it…it’s like they thought…what does Sofia like to wear…baggy black tops and skinny jeans it is.
Photographed by Diamando Christofi, Contributing Editor, London, at Designscene.net
Now hating my life because all I want to do is pass out but I have 468 photos and 98 e-mails to go through (99 by the time I finished this…damn now it’s 101). And you always ask me if I’m LOOKING FORWARD to fashion week and if I’m going to any PARTIES. This is just day 1…in a NUTSHELL!

Sebago’s Artisan Collection – Tradition Meets Innovative Style

26 Sep

You say “Tomatoe” I say “Tomahto”. The same goes with the shoe brand name, SEBAGO. No matter which way you elect to pronounce it, Sebago is a great brand. Sometime during NYFW, I fell into a huge clothing rut – I no longer knew what I wanted to wear, and despite a stuffed walk-in closet at home, nothing looked right. As I sat in Robert Verdi’s Luxe Laboratory, looking at the Sebago display, the answer came to me- preppy dressing.

By this, I mean how we used to dress in the late Seventies in Middle School and at Greenwich High. There was a uniform and it transitioned me into my freshman year at Duke. The early Eighties were a throwback period to conservatism. Ronald Reagan had just been elected President, and it was good to look WASP, ie: subtly rich. At this same time, Lisa Birnbach’s Preppy Handbook came out and served as the how-to get the look of affluence.

Key to the look is the boat shoe and the penny loafer. Anyone in Middle School who didn’t have Dock or Top Siders was a social outcast. One had a rounded toe, the other a square toe, and either was acceptable, as long as they were by Sperry. Only those most tuned into fashion back then knew that the ORIGINAL boat shoe was actually manufactured by SEBAGO, in 1946.  Friend, R. Scott French, fashion designer and co-owner of The Fashion List, was one of the few who KNEW. Little good this did him as his less enlightened Baltimore classmates kept insisting that his Sebago docks were “wrong” and their Sperrys were “right”.

Once at Duke, I swapped my topsiders for penny loafers in cordovan and wore them with jeans and some of my Mother’s tweed blazers and a prize Diana Vreeland red tweed blazer [with suede elbow patches]through fall and early winter.

Years later, I remembered my beloved topsiders and loafers while flipping through the September 2011 People’s Special Fashion Issue, with the blaring headline, “Kate’s Style Secrets!”. On p. 51 lay the answer to my “Whatever Do I Wear?” crisis. There, at the top of the page, were a pair of Sebago “Bala” mocassins, with an oily wax finish that looked great with Kate’s J Brand jeans and a simple button down shirt.

Years later, at the Luxe Lab, I learned from Tracee Yang, Harrison & Shriftman’s PR Rep, that today’s Sebagos are all hand made in the Dominican Republic.  They’ve kept the original designs we love but they’ve added some great fashion twists, by collaborating with artists such as Stash, an innovator in urban design who exhibited alongside the late Keith Haring, when he was 17 years old. Since then, he’s added a commercial aspect to his work, by collaborating with Nike and A Bathing Ape. We loved his short moc/boot that laces up and has a bit of spatter treatment to toughen up this beloved preppy staple.

Another noteworthy collaboration is with the Filson, a “better outdoor clothing company” that was established in 1897 in Seattle, by C.C. Filson, a former railroad conductor. His fledgling outdoor clothing store took off thanks to the Great Klondike Gold Rush [1897-9].

Sebago has mixed Filson’s oil tint cloths with Sebago leathers, most notably in a ruggedly handsome bag that’s also very practical. The bags are available exclusively in Bloomingdales’ selected NYC, Santa Monica, LA, and 59th Street.

Sure to be an editorial success are the women’s collection with Kimmie Smith, who’s known for her “nuvo glam style”. She’s already done a small collection for fall that’s being well received, but lookout for the spring collection, which will be available online in February and March. You’ll have to wait until then to pickup her irresistible colorful docksides.

For now, if you’re a guy, or shopping for one, you’re in luck. There’s a nice assortment of styles at the Sebago popup store at Saks 5th Ave. on the 7th floor. The salesmen there couldn’t be nicer. Seeing I was near tears after slogging through the rain to discover Saks isn’t yet carrying the Plaza and Bala Sebagos I wanted, they directed me to East 34th Street. It was there, thanks to them, that I finally scored, at Orva Shoes, just like they said, at 34 West 34th Street.

Now, I just have to wait until late October, for my pair of “Balas” to come in. I’ve just put in my order for the first tall boot I’ve bought in years – the Saranac, which has a stylish tweed panel offsetting the rich light brown leather and a practical lug sole.

Lisa Perry’s Modern Take on the Iconic Pan Am Stewie

22 Sep

Text, Vivian Kelly

The Right Time and the Right Place: “The Pan Am Era”, circa 1963

My NYFW mates, Mark Behnke, Men’s Editor for Fashion Tribes and “Video Vixen” Lisa Johnson, Editor in Chief of Lisa Johnson Fitness, couldn’t wait to meet the crew of “The Real Stewardesses of Pan Am”. Unfortunately, by the time we raced over from the Donna Karan store and the Marissa Berenson Book signing, our targets had flown the coop. We still got our Pan Am Stewie fix though, as there were models dressed in the blue retro uniform handing out airplane snacks and beverages. Once we fueled-up, we settled in and started exploring the all white store. I was transported back to the early Sixties, a period in time I’m utterly enamored with. I actually DID fly Pan Am in 1963, but as an 11 month old infant, sadly I don’t remember much. Ten years later, I caught the end of the “Pan Am Era” jetstream, when I flew Pan Am , New York to Paris, and had one of the best meals of my young life -on a plane! What I remember even more than the food was how utterly beautiful the stewardesses were, with their little hats, perfect figures and immaculate hair and makeup. Barbie couldn’t hold a candle to them. Years later, when the airlines changed their title to “flight attendant”, the glamour left the building. They may as well have called them “air waitresses”.

The Lisa Perry store is a like a very cool apartment you want to spend the day in so you can look at all the coffee table books, [such as Airline], study the Roy Lichtenstein prints on the wall and try on each and every one of the colorful Sixties’ style dresses hanging on the fixtures. For a fashionista who’s enamored of this era, it’s like being deposited into a wonderful penny candy store where you want to try everything on but don’t know where to start.

A Japanese businessman was holding the last Pan Am logoed bag Lisa had designed. He couldn’t decide if he should buy it. It wasn’t leather, but it was “a great design and a wonderful piece of retro. My wife will kill me if I buy this, but…”

I encouraged him, “If you don’t buy it tonight, you’re going to kick yourself later. There won’t be any more, and you know that once you see the show, you’ll want it even more. You can tell your wife you’ll share it with her.”

He bought it.

On our way out, my initial disappointed on missing the cast evaporated when we got to chat with Lisa Perry herself about the Limited Edition bags she’d designed for FNO and to commune about our shared love for this legendary time in history.

Ms. Perry told us her collaboration with the highly anticipated TV show, The Real Stewardesses of Pan Am was suggested to her by Vogue magazine. When I asked if she would design a Pan Am suit she laughed and said she could design a whole collection based on that but only after researching the original suits. Stay tuned for the upcoming show episodes and for Ms. Perry’s Pan Am inspired suits. If the limited edition bags she put out are any indication [most were snapped up on FNO] of the success of this future collection, then she’ll have a gang-busters hit on her hands, as will ABC.

>The END of THis HUnt- Happy New Year!

1 Jan

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Cheers and HAppy New Year!
It’s getting on to noon, January 1, 2011. The snow is piled-up outside the French window of my home office, Sylvester is playing “You Make Me Feel Mighty Real” on the ipod, my new Rigaud Cypress Candle is burning, and we’re going to see TRUE GRIT, because I got swept away by the editorial in the January issue of W mag.
The HUnt to accessorize my evening ensemble [L.A. Schulman, White Plains NY - on the label] ended well, as at the 11 1/2 hour I found an acceptable shoe at DSW yesterday, around 2p.m., a mere 5 hours before we were due to arrive at the party.
The gold satin peep toe sling back by Nina I settled on at DSW was a bargain $49 minus 30% and the heel was just high enough for the rolled hem of the vintage gown to avoid dragging and acting as a broom.


In the end, when in came to the hair and makeup, I mixed and matched the advice of B. Michael [slicked-back hair], Erin Simmons [black eyeliner] and the friendly MAC Cosmetics Girl “Girl About Town” MAC Cosmetics lipstick.

New Year = New HUnts
All of this vintage activity has me reenergized to resume my studies of two women who currently fascinate me: Wallis Simpson and Anita Pallenberg. After a rushed pre-New Year’s Eve chat with gal pal Theodora Brack, the Paris Correspondent of www.eurocheapo.com, we both promised each other we’d hop onto www.amazon.com and buy “The Darkness of Wallis Simpson”

by Rose Tremain and compare notes in late Jan.

It’s a new year now and THe HUnt resumes, this time with a focus on What Will I Wear for the 7-10 Days of New York Fashion Week?
WHAT merits being packed into the small rolling suitcase I’m limiting myself to.
The black Valentino top I found three days ago at The Fashion Exchange is calling my name….

Shopping Information
Dress – McGeorgie’s Antiques & Consignments
Tel: 203-270-9101

The Fashion Exchange
tel: 203-791-9002

DSW
www.dsw.com

>The HUnt- Continuing To Accessorize a Vintage Gown and William Rast for Target

30 Dec

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Yesterday, I resumed The HUnt [the one in which I am seeking to accessorize my Fifties Vintage dress for New Year’s Eve.
Yesterday, a visit to The Fashion Connection 2, where I remember there being a surfeit of wedding style silk shoes yielded very little. The most promising candidate was a pointy heel cream silk Gucci with a monstrous 4” heel and only secures to the foot with a thin ballerina style ribbon.
I’m making my last ditch effort today and tomorrow, which will include which will include visits to DSW and TJ Maxx. If none of those work out, I may go back and get the Guccis and just find a seat and spend the evening on my bum, getting up to circulate for 5 minutes here and there.

The trip to the Consignment Shop though, was not a total waste; I left with a baby blue DKNY oversized turtleneck sweater slashed down to $12.

I passed [for now] on a skinny little black Valentino top with a self-belt and silver tone buttons I’ll stop in next week to see if she’ll come down in price.
There’s usually a silver lining to everything, and yesterday’s quest was no exception. I’d been intending to investigate the William Rast for Target collection ever since I received emails from LaForce & Stevens PR that Justin Timberlake’s line would be in store soon.
Only last week over coffee, I’d told couture designer friend, B. [Michael] that I wasn’t going to drag myself to Target to look. The plan was to order a few pair of the jeans and to try them on at home.
Feeling a bit grouchy about my non-success vis a vis the shoe hunt, I decided to drop into Target since I was out and about anyhow. Key to this decision – I’m listening to the audio version of Keith Richards’ LIFE book on CD and it is great!
Nothing like a good Book on Tape to keep me motivated.
Once in Target, I focused on finding Rast. The display in the Bethel store was so small that I started to walk out before I caught sight of the understated signage that was overwhelmed by glaring displays for Mossimo.
Into the dressing room I went, with 4 pairs of jeans: 2 in dark denim “skinny leg” and 2 in a faded medium color with a bootleg cut. Sizing tends to err on the small side – unlike the Isaac Miz collection. A size “3” = a 25 waist in Rast, and a “5” = a 26 waist.
They’ve got a little bit of stretch to them and aren’t bad, actually better than I’d expected, coming in at $49. The deciding element for me was the thin-ish denim fabric. I walked-out sans jeans. If and when they go on clearance, I’ll probably pick up the medium denim and road test them and see how they fare in the wash.
Conclusion – for a Target –Designer Collaboration, this one was pretty good, and the quality a notch over the previous Rodarte, Zac Posen, and Jonathan Saunders Collaborations.

On the schedule for today, a trip to the fabric store to pick up thick satin ribbon to sew on to the vintage dress to as B. Michael said, “harness” myself into the dress, one more stab at finding the shoe, an a trip to the Aveda Salon to confer with my CT- go-to hair guru, Erin Simmons, about the hair style to best complement the dress.

Regardless of the outcome, I’ll be wearing the dress and putting up pictures. Hopefully, the final result will be a fashion “Do” not a “Don’t”.
I’ll let you write-in and decide!

>This Week’s Pictoral – the HUNT Begins in Earnest

26 Dec

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

This week, which yes, included Christmas Day, was nonetheless dominated by the fun problems presented by most recent acquisition while on THE HUNT. The dress [no coat] will be the centerpiece of my New Year’s outfit. Pamme is going to the bother of bringing-out the fine china, crystal and champagne. While I love my black wool and taffeta Vera Wang dress, it’s too minimalistic. For this occasion, more is more, and as such, better
The dress is the centerpiece, but it comes with its unique set of requirements: the right hair makeup, shoe, and jewelry.

I won’t take-off my platinum and diamond wedding band, but other than that, the only jewelry I’ll wear is the starter piece in my Miriam Haskell collection – a pair of pearl and gold clip on earrings. If you’re not familiar with Miriam Haskell Costume Jewelry, here’s a little 411 from ww.miriamhaskell.com
Miriam Haskell has been synonymous with impeccable style and beautiful jewelry since the 1920’s. Haskell Jewels, headquartered in New York City, is a leading designer, marketer and distributor of costume jewelry. Founded in 1926 by Miriam Haskell, she established her brand name as one that represented, and continues to represent, the utmost in style and quality by creating hand crafted jewelry with keen attention to detail.
While the company is busy with initiatives that involve some of the majors such as Macy’s and Nordstrom, it is her VINTAGE pieces that I consider “true Haskell” and which experts such as Camilla Dietz Bergeron deem worthy of collecting.

Below, some shots of the journey on this phase of THE HUNT.



>THe HUnt- Accessorizing a Vintage Gown for New Year’s Eve

25 Dec

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var addthis_config = {“data_track_clickback”:true};Bookmark and ShareTEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The thrill of the hunt

I got sucked-in when I was 25 years old, and working for a powerful battleaxe of a woman on Wall Street in the late Eighties. With a boyfriend who was living thousands of miles away in Texas, I had my only day off – Sunday – to do as I pleased. That’s when I discovered designer goods for less. I’d heard that there was a good designer flea market a few miles North of my former High School,

Greenwich High. I borrowed my Father’s baby blue Olds and after getting lost a few times, finally found it and Susan and a lifelong passion for the hunt.

Susan Munson changed my life because after buying my first few important pieces from her, I started what was to become my life-long love affair with fashion.

From Susan, I bought, a white fox fur coat

my boss pronounced “Vegas” and a Speedy 35 that impressed even her. When I told her I scored it for $45, I had the satisfaction of seeing her jaw drop to the ground.

Years later, I’m still on the hunt. I am unable to go travel without visiting at least ONE designer consignment store while at that particular destination. Sometimes, that includes Goodwill or Salvation Army shops, as in the one in San Francisco, where an acquaintance of one of my AAU students found a Chanel leather and gold chain belt for $8. When I dropped in, I found some vintage Monet clip earrings, which I happily scooped up, but no Chanel.

My most recent score is a vintage [I’m guessing circa 1955 turquoise evening gown laden-down with pearl embroidery with a matching sleeveless coat. Both are floor length and I am facing one of my biggest fashion challenges ever and would love any feedback from you, my friends and readers.

So far, I've been piecing it together with a little help from my friends: B. Michael, Dawn Sheppard and Kathy of Dawn's Vintage Jewelry and master hair stylists, Anthony Leonard [NYC] and Erin Simmons [CT].

CHALLENGE: I’ve decided to wear only the dress, which is a size 12. I am a size zero or two, but that’s by today’s standards. Standing 5’5” tall, I’m dwarfed by the gown which weights-in at around 10 lbs.

My friend, couture designer, B. Michael, forbade me to cut the dress. His suggestion is an easy one and brilliant. I’ll sew-in two sets of ribbons, one just below the breastbone, and one, above the waist. Once tied, the dress will be anchored onto me. The effect will be that of a tunic rather than a fitted gown, but I’m thrilled to be able to actually WEAR the dress to the black tie New Year’s Eve Party I bought it for.

SECRET ADDRESS, revealed – I first spotted this treasure at the end of the summer at McGeorgi’s Antiques & Consignments when I was there looking for a desk lamp. I was drawn by the color but passed, as I had nothing to wear it to.

Once my brilliant Improv Actor friend, Pamme Jones invited us to a black tie New Year’s Eve gathering, I had my excuse to go back and buy this gown from Carl H. Georgi II, the shop’s owner. Curiously, Carl claims not to “know anything about fashion and style” but he’s got the eye, no question.

Now that I’ve acquired the dress, I’m working on the right hairstyle, which I’ll be blogging about next complete with the video of B. Michael’s suggestion on what hair to do that will modernize my vintage dress with a modern spin. He also points me in the right direction as to which shoes I should wear.

The hunt for the right shoe resumes on December 26th. On December 28th, a visit with Anthony
at his Anthony Leonard Salon, to discuss the hair and on the 31st, Erin of Aveda Shine Salon will actually set the hair for the party 6 hours later.

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>CUSTO BARCELONA – Fake is Great, Especially When It’s Reversible And Machine-Washable

23 Aug

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
fall 2010 Image, courtesy of Custo Barcelona

By “fake”, I DO NOT MEAN KNOCK-OFFS. THIS FAKE IS ALSO KNOWN AS FAUX FUR.
THE KAISER, KARL LAGERFELD, MOST NOTABLY DID IT FOR FALL/WINTER 2010 AT CHANEL, BUT HAVE A LOOK AT THIS WILD LOOK BY CUSTO BARCELONA.
for Fall 2010,
CUSTO BARCELONA introduced the “2 great coats in 1”. It’s all-glam on one side, and all-about vintage on the other.
It’s currently available in Burgundy and Hunter Green, as seen on the fall 2010 New York runway show. I got there too late, and despite having a ticket to a decent seat, had to content myself with watching the show on the monitor in the Bryant Park lobby. Nonetheless, as menswear writer, MARK BEHNKE of www.fashiontribes.com and I studied the looks, I was all-in. HERE, IS A DESIGNER WHO STILL MANAGES TO CUE INTO THE TRENDS, BUT STILL DOES IT “MY WAY”. We loved the color, the flash, and the sheer hutzpah of this collection, that reminded me of the ghetto-glam of one of my favorite BOND flicks, “Live and Let Die”, in which one of the Harlem drug lord-villains, ‘Mr. Karanga’ [actor, Yaphet Kotto], wore a coat quite similar to this one, in the scene where he was assassinated in his over the top Caddy pimp mobile.
I love the fashion AND economical aspect of this coat. You get to hit fall’s vintage trend, and as for glamour – THAT is ALWAYS in fashion.

Available at www.custo-barcelona.com

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