Text, Vivian Kelly
Spanish fashion designers just don’t get enough play in New York – plain and simple. A few years ago, Agatha Ruis de la Prada had an event in Soho during fashion week and I trekked down there [nothing much else going on there that evening]. I had two reasons to do so: 1. I was thrilled that a Spanish designer was on the Calendar for the New York shows.
2. Lisa Silhanek, who I really like, was doing Agatha’s PR.
Years before that, when I was still at Michael Kors, Miguel Adrover was the golden child of fashion. The top zine editors couldn’t get enough of him. He creeped me out a tad as he had a long black beard and reminded me a bit of the fanatic, Rasputin, who helped betray the last Czar and bring about the Russian Revolution. Last I heard, Mr. Adrover was out in Spain on the Costa del Sol DJ-ing, or something like that.
For now, the main player from Spain is without question, Custo Barcelona and the designer behind the brand, Custo Dalmau.
Here’s what we know about the upcoming s/s2012 collection, so far.
The name and inspiration of the s/s 2012 collection is “GABONGA” – a word coined to describe something new: a collection beginning with graphic fabrics and flowing garments, and ending with more body-conscious pieces that enhance the figure; with superimposed and contrasting lengths to highlight femininity.
Just WHAT does that mean? There’s nothing like hearing it directly from the designer’s lips.
“We try to create a universe based on sensations, mixing colors, graphics and materials, exploring the smallest details to the maximum.” – Custo Dalmau
Below, some specifics for those of you who crave design details.
Silhouettes: Lots of loose-fitting looks including dresses and tunics, with free-flowing silk chiffon, nylon and silk organza, and skirts and shorts matched with voluminous blouses.
Notable Details: sleeves on the blouses include metal stud embellishments that match the graphics. They also include small zigzag elements that have been cut out individually.
The Look: body-con – mostly very tight graphic patchwork dresses = signature Custo Barcelona.
Color palette: fresh and bright, apple green, orangey-pink, beige, nude and coral pink, aquamarine and tropical khaki. Metal tones with shiny Lurex, including yellow gold, copper, gunmetal, white gold and violet.
Fabrics: translucent and free-flowing – meaning, chiffon, silk sating, ultrafine nylon and dentelle, and prints adorned with metal studs.
Something New: trench coats and swimwear –but don’t fret, they’re all in typical Custo graphics, Mr. Dalau does like no one else,in printed nylon, others designed with small kaleidoscopic elements and patches.
Additional Pre-show intel: shorts and trousers with chain-mail embellishments, matched with cropped bomber jackets and masculine waistcoats, over semi-transparent chain-mail openwork shirts.
Even though this is one of the most comprehensive preview info I’ve ever been provided with, I know that the show itself will be a spectacle well-worth enduring the crushing line for, as Mr. Dalmau is a master showman. Ole!
As always, a little review of past Custo runway hits