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>The Toni Francesc Show and Backstage w/ Toni Francesc, Pre-Show

15 Feb

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Text, Carey Zamarriego, Contributing Writer
Edited by Vivian Kelly

Toni Francesc
GARUDÀ AW 11

*Cute anecdote: One of the security guards at the front mentioned that Toni Francesc tried to enter the show through the front entrance, saying “look, that’s me, there is my name” (pointing to ‘Toni Francesc’ written on the wall) and had to be told to go to the backstage area.*
Our general impression of Toni: very warm, friendly, playful and gracious.
The Backstage pre-Show Interview:
The Fashion Examiner: The inspiration for your collection was the mythical Phoenix (a bird which, every 500 years, rises from its ashes anew), where did this source of inspiration come from? A trip to India? A story? A photo
Toni Francesc: It can be said to be Indonesian. It does have its roots in Asia, but this is not an Asian collection. It is inspired by the idea of rebirth, of coming back from ashes, from fire.
TheFE:  Your collection is about renewal, is it also a commentary on the state of the world now after the crisis?
Toni Francesc: Exactly, mainly for me, because it is something I am living and experiencing. I refer to everything that surrounds me in my clothes. Spain is in a tough situation and all of us need to emerge and experience a rebirth, a renewal, from these moments of ash.
TheFE: At the time of creating your collection, do you think about trends and Pantone colors, or do you do whatever you want?
Toni Francesc: I believe that inspiration comes from other places. I don’t search out trends. If anything, I need to create them. Generally, I look at things outside of the world of fashion; that is where I am inspired more. Everything around me is reflected in my clothes. For Artificial Life, two collections ago (AW 2010), I met with a group of friends through Facebook, while we were having dinner, everyone wasn’t interacting with each other, but with others via technology, we didn’t experience the moment. It’s this; playing with simple moments and arriving at their complexity that I like to do.
TheFE: This is your fourth time showing at NYFW, how does it feel compared to the first time?
Toni Francesc: Ah, yes (giggles). I feel the same as the first time; really THIS is the first time. The nerves are always there, usually I appear to be very calm, but the nerves and my stomach are turning on the inside. But everything is under control and I hope it goes well.
TheFE:  You and Custo are two Catalan designers showing at NYFW. Do you find any similarities in your designs? And are you two friends?
Toni Francesc: Friends-friends, no, but we do know each other and I really admire the work Custo does, he has been working hard for a long time. But our styles are very different.
TheFE: Finish these sentences:
What I like most about NY is…(the city and the people).
What I miss most about Barcelona is…(my family, but I brought them to NY, that little boy who just ran up to us is my son).
*Toni also brought along his wife and mother.*
The Collection/Show- Highlights
Started with a striking redhead wearing a trench, skirt and animal print top.
Animal print cocktail dress with a wrap leather belt (my favorite!!)
Elaborate backless silk jumpsuits in gray and orange.
Mixing silk with wool and leather. (ie: silk orange top with gray pants)
Silk pieces that looked like watercolors with splashes of deep reds, maroon, oranges and gray.
Trends:
  1. Wide leg pants (black with backless high neck silk top)
  2. Bright red lipstick on the models (also gave the crowd L.I/P Cream from Mehron in Big Apple red).
  3. Wool jacket, trenches and dresses with bottons to bring in a bit of a military feel.
  4. Gold leaf belts with gray wool dress and also skirts.

>Let the NYFW Previews Begin!

6 Feb

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The shows are less than a week away and the previews are pouring in. Flattering, yes, and definitely a tad overwhelming when it comes to the planning part of the operation that’s called “NYFW”.
When Daniel Silver, 1/2 of Duckie Brown and I walked down the endless stairs from Studio 385 he got me thinking [really] about which designers REALLY ARE my favorites.
“You must have some favorites” he stated. 
“Well yes, Duckie Brown, obviously, I laughed.” 
Daniel’s question got me thinking on my way back to my car in the ChinaTown lot. Yes, I love Duckie Brown, but what else did I really care about?
The shows I look forward to seeing are the “smaller” and more “avant-garde” ones, even though they take place in New York, not Paris. As they’re in New York, they should thus be “commercial”. I’m sure my faves sell some clothes as they’re still around and not road kill on the path of “used to be” designers. What makes the ones that most intrigue me stand out is the element of surprise.
I’ve got a few preview shots of some of these shows, and in some cases just a hard copy invite to share.
On the list
Duckie Brown
Buckler
Number Lab [new to me, but I loved the invite, so I'm curious]
Toni Francesc
Jeremy Scott
Academy of Art University [there's always a minimum of one "wow" student showing at this
Douglas Hannant

Number Lab pulled together a bunch of words that made me want to go and see for myself:  


"Taking FLIGHT // ALPINE SKI-JUMPING
Colorado AIR FORCE ACADEMY // ELEVATION
CHIAROSCURO // Zaha Hadid’s BERGISEL Structure
ENDURANCE // NORDIC SKY // ALTITUDE"


Douglas Hannant is having an event held in his honor by Geoffrey Bradfield to celebrate the launch of Douglas Hannant De Robert Piguet.
Jeremy Scott? You just never know what he has in store. I've been a fan since his long-ago "Walk Like An Egyptian" collection.
ANDREW BUCKLER's theme for fall 2011 is "anonymous art" and the idea that "the urban arts and artists [use] the streets as a medium to communicate messages. Anonymous art fuels discussion as the artist questions the conventions of art.”

Spaniard Toni Toni Francesc has as his pre-show teaser: 

Phoenix: “Immortality and Renewal”

The image of a chic woman dressed in a drapey white blouse and sporting a Fedora and bright red lips doesn’t necessarily remind me of a phoenix, but that’s an outfit I’d like to wear, and that’s a great starting point.

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