Maria Maria Maria! [Sharapova] – That Is, Styled by Leonard Zagami For NYFW

STORY, Anthony Palermo

Preface,by Vivian Kelly

I’ve always admired  gorgeous women with long blonde locks since I was 5 years old, starting with Goldilocks and  later, Princess Aurora, Farrah Fawcett Majors, Marilyn Monroe and more recently, Blake Lively and Maria Sharapova. Family friend, William, then a Dutch University Student, and now a KLM pilot, jokingly showed me an image of Maria Sharapova on his iphone, casually calling her “my girlfriend” and then laughing when I believed him – for a second.

Apparently, we weren’t the only ones to think Maria was something really special.

This season, at NYFW, Maria was front row at some of New York’s biggest shows. Below, Anthony Palermo, tells us how his ALS partner, Leonard Zagami, created some fresh looks for the gorgeous tennis star. I’ve featured the one she sported at the Marc Jacobs show.

And, now… here’s Anthony!

“Mercedes Benz Fashion week is always filled with fabulous people. These Fall RTW 2012 collections were more about the who’s who in the front row. One of our all time favorites , Maria Sharapova , knows how to make an entrance and cause a frenzy on the court, but the real commotion starts when she is spotted at all the hottest shows!  Celebrity make up artist  and  friend of the AnthonyLeonard Salon ,  Andie Markoe -Byrne, teamed up with  Leonard Zagami, Creative Director of ALS,  to complete Maria ’s looks for the shows.

Read on as Leonard explains look 1 of the 3 looks he gave the grand slammer for this very fashionable NYC Week!

AT Marc Jacobs:

Maria , seen here with famed photographer  Patrick Demarchelier and his wife Mia , had a slightly pinned back side part . “I used Super Shine Cream by Oribe   to get a sleek look with out it being too overdone” says Zagami. ” I also used a Kent Brush ( for fine hair) to help smooth down fly-aways”. Maria usually  parts her hair in the middle so this was a great change for her!

To read and see all 3, go to anthonyleonardsalonblog. There, you’ll find out how Leonard styled her for her appearances at Vera Wang and Oscar de la Renta. If you’re sitting next to Anna [Wintour], you had BETTER be on your game! Thanks to Leonard, Maria looked every bit the star she is.

True Fashion – The Legend of Lady White Snake, Starring Daphne Guinness

Text, Vivian Kelly

Reported by Vivian Kelly and Laura Wood

Photograph of Daphne Guinness by Markus Klinko & Indrani

WHAT: a Grade-A platinum fashion moment at 172 Norfolk Street, NYC

It’s taken me two days to fully digest the events of Sunday night. It’s not often I get a dose of pure undiluted high octane fashion.

Laura and I arrived at the Angel Orensanz Foundation for Contemporary Art at 10:00p.m. on the dot. THIS was NOT something either of us wanted to miss a second of. We had high hopes for this event, in part due to two days worth of experiencing the polished sterility of the Lincoln Center Venues and the accompanying jitters of sucking down one too many cans of  free Diet Pepsi. We were actually look forward to visiting Alphabet City as the Lower East Side is the only remaining vestige of “NYC Eighties cool” that still survives. Going down there is fun and makes me feel 25 again.

The Angel Orensanz venue is the artist’s creation and is a cross between a Russian Orthodox Church and a nightclub, in other words, Limelight, when it just started and was THE place to go and dance until 2:00a.m. before going off to Florent in MeatPacking to have something to eat before trying to score a taxi willing to take us back to Laura’s apartment in the Village.

It was obvious from the moment we entered that this was “a happening”. First, there were the photographs – giant sized ones of Daphne Guinness posing in her astounding McQueen Couture, which she wore in the film. Catwoman has nothing on Daphne who was dressed up as a high fashion villainess in a red catsuit and insanely high heels. I’ll need to win Powerball to scratch this itch as I mentally “bought” four of the photographs that would look amazing in  The Fashion Examiner office and  fireplace room. Total cost for four of Markus Klinko & Indrani’s fabulous photos of Daphne = $160,000. These photos really DO “combine story-telling with cutting-edge fashion”.

Next, we ambled over to the well-stocked bar – no yukky plastic glasses here – and sat down in a padded bamboo gilt chair just as Daphne made her entrance in an incredible chainmail gown and a head ornament loaded with what I’m assuming were probably actually diamonds rather than Swarovski Crystals.

The film itself was genius – a cross between a poetry reading and a couture fashion show. It may sound odd, but it was spectacular. On our way out, Laura stopped to chat with a young female editor to get her take. Like us, she was blown away and was going to Google the film and read Neil Gaiman’s poem. The point of the film though, was the EXPERIENCE and it got a 10/10 on that score. After this visual feast, we got an auditory one – a performance by the very talented Viva Girls, who were perched like a row of angels in blue ball gowns to the right of the massive screen.

The grand finale to the event was a capsule collection of gowns from the new Genghis Khan collection designed by GK Reid. We loved the hooded one and his concept of transformative styling and dressing – something we can totally get behind.

SO, which of Markus Klinko & Idrani’s photographs of Daphne Guinness would YOU like to take home with you?

Daphne in her Chain mail Couture

Versace Lovin’ in Vogue Japan and Madonna Makes the Superbowl

Text, Vivian Kelly

Nirvana.

I was sitting in Anthony’s black patent leather nailhead chair with Madison Avenue to my right and my laptop in front of me. To my right on the marble ledge were stacks of Rizzoli and Assouline coffee table books as well as the latest European editions of Vogue. As Anthony magically erased my skunk roots with the potion in the squeeze bottle, we talked blogs and the Superbowl.

He’d just posted  on the killer images shot by Carlyn Cerf de Dudzeele for Vogue Japan, which he’d also collaborated on. Anthony’s role was to work his colorist magic to give the models cotton candy colored hair which played off the Versace outfits. I’d  previewed them on his ipad over the Holidays but seeing them in the post and in the actual magazine blew me away. The other contributors were Oribe who styled the hair and Lena Koro who did the makeup.

This shoot  is unmistakably reminiscent of those incredible Avedon ones back when Gianni was still alive. The clothes, many of them from the Versace for H&M Collaboration were so close to Gianni’s early nineties designs that I almost wept with joy. Enjoy these cotton candy images, you can peruse on your iphone as you pretend to be paying attention to the SuperBowl game.

Fashionistas – don’t forget to look up at half-time though, to watch the one and only Material Girl strut her stuff in front of 111 million viewers [last Bowl's figures]. The SuperBowl is said to rank #2 in “holidays with most food consumption”, but maybe thoughts of fitting into Versace and watching Madonna’s insanely toned body will spur us to put that 10th chicken wing down!

Madonna - Toned and Jacked to the Maxx

Versace – You Want to Fit Into This!

To read Anthony’s post on this fantastic editorial, go to Anthony Leonard Salon’s blog. Note his clever use of cotton candy colored text!

Mad Men Costume Designer Janie Bryant Reveals How To Use Carolee Jewelry to Get the Look

Text, Vivian Kelly

Are you a “Betty-Jackie” or a “Joan-Marilyn”? Mad Men Costume Designer, Janie Bryant shares a few key accessory styling tips to enhance your look.

Janie Bryant, recently had a public appearance, hosted by Carolee jewelry,  at Bloomingdale’s Century City in Los Angeles.  Style expert Janie met with customers and provided jewelry and fashion advice on “How to become your own leading lady!”

Not being on the West Coast at the time, I couldn’t go, but I got to correspond with her via email and I’m going to pick up a copy of her new book, which she recently released.  THE FASHION FILE Advice, Tips and Inspiration from the Costume Designer of MADMEN, provides tips based on Janie’s “Mad Men” style trends. In it, she teaches her readers how to create different moods and reveal a bit about their personality through accessories… “It’s the surest cure-all for wardrobe ennui.”

I’ve been a fan of Mad Men, since last summer, when checked into a motel at Rehobeth Beach, Delaware, just to score some much needed down time. A mild case of insomnia turned out to be a big plus when I stumbled onto the show, which I’d been intending to watch for months. I never left the room until check-out at 11a.m. the next day as I lay on the bed gobbling up episode after episode of Mad Men and a pot of hotel room coffee. After 4 episodes, I came to a few conclusions:

-“Joan” looks hottest in her most covered up dresses- no hiding those amazing curves

- “Betty” is my favorite in character and looks fresh and tailored and classically beautiful.

I started studying Betty’s look on hulu [no AMC at home], and fell back in love with camel cashmere and pearls.

My Mad Men “moment” came when Joan’s secretary pool were talking about whether they were “ a Jackie” or “ a Marilyn”. Although that was over 40 years ago, these 2 categories are still alive and very relevant today. In case you missed the episode, Betty is a Jackie, and Joan is a Marilyn.

I’ve always been “a Jackie”, even when I bleached my hair Marilyn white years ago, wanting to see if I could bust out of my “type”.

Not possible – it takes more than a hair color change.

The sort of jewelry, fragrance, and dress all contribute to your J or M category. I started studying the characters’ outfits and decided that they were too retro for my every day look, but maybe copying details such as hairstyle and jewelry would give me the effect I was after. When Gina DiDomenico’s of Paul Wilmot Communications emailed me about Janie explaining how to get the character’s style with a few accessories, it was the answer to this fashion prayer.

Follow this LINK to watch a video of Janie Bryant offering her unique fashion and styling tips

Thanks to Gina, I got my most pressing questions for Janie about “Mad Men Style” answered.

Below, the Q&A 1.     Which character did you first want to work on? Why?

JANIE BRYANT: From the moment I read the script, I loved all of the characters. They each have their own story and costume nuances—I’m lucky to be able to design for them all!

2.  **We’re fascinated with the past now, particularly the Sixties: Mad Men, The Real Stewardesses of Pan Am.  What do you think it is about this period that fascinates us so much?

J.B. People feel nostalgia for a time when they could dress for occasions.  They want to feel the everyday glamour that is so characteristic of the 1960s and incorporate this into their everyday lives.

3.     How can we incorporate aspects of “Mad Men” dressing into our wardrobes?  For women?

J.B. A classic shirtwaist dress or sheath dress are great silhouettes to incorporate into your wardrobe.  Match your shoes to your handbag and don’t forget to layer those pearls, ladies!  You could even add white leather wrist gloves for a fun little touch—any length will do!

4. P/s suggest a Carolee piece for the principle characters: Joan, and Betty, in particular. 

J.B. It is simply the best for Betty, so strands of ladylike pearls would be my choice for her.  For a little drama in Joan’s life, a broach makes such a statement!

Endnote: Today, I went to Lord & Taylor and purchased my first “Betty-Jackie” Carolee piece; a 16″ pearl necklace, which I’ll be wearing daily.As for my Joan-Mrailyn friends, this Art Deco crystal broach would be stunning on you!

Gwen Stefani’s s/s2012 L.A.M.B. Collection – When Fashion by a Celebrity is a Good Thing

Text, Vivian Kelly

Celebrities have a bad rap in the fashion business. I’d taken a skeptical stance on the idea of the notion of celebrity as fashion designer, since the days when Kathie Lee Gifford “designed” a line for Wal-Mart, followed by legions of demi celebs such as Paris Hilton who capitalized on their fame to produce shoddy garments they themselves would never actually wear. The fact that THEY themselves wore Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Oscar de la Renta etc etc. said it all.

There are exceptions however, that show that celebrities CAN [in conjunction with the right team] produce a credible fashion line. The first time I witnessed this was while attending a Justin Timberlake concert at Mohegan Sun, soon after his “Future Sex/Love Sounds” tour hit. Joe Zee did an amazing job styling him and Justin carried that white suit as well as John Travolta did his in “Saturday Night Fever”.

IT wasn’t William Rast, but I recall being stupefied when mid-way through the show, he sang a ballad in a plaid William Rast shirt and jeans. That night, I began reconsidering the celebrity as fashion designer issue and resolved to actually READ the WWD articles about Celebrity X designing a fashion line to see if others besides Justin were getting it right.

Good news. In the ranks of the “getting it right” are Justin Timberlake/William Rast, the Olsen Twins/Elizabeth and James, and the subject of this post, Gwen Stefani/L.A.M.B. Until this NYFW, the closest I got to Gwen’s line was seeing pieces at Nordstrom’s on the floor. I liked what I saw and longed to see her next collection in its entirety to see if she continued to follow-through on her branding message ie: herself  = a fun yet sophisticated version of cool.

A key ingredient for a brand’s success is to create an identity and to stick with your DNA. Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana hit gold early in their career with the severe look of elderly Italian women clad in black crossed with sexy corsets and animal print that showed their idealized woman; one who possesses an intriguing angel-devil personality.

Gwen Stefani has similarly created a believable personality for her L.A.M.B line. She is known as a pop star who mixes classic glamour with funky contemporary clothing resulting in a mix that is the modern equivalent of Eighties’ pop star, Cyndi Lauper. Although physically these two don’t resemble one another, they share that irresistible “Girls Just Wanna Have Fun” spirit that I’ve loved since Ms. Lauper debuted it in 1983 on MTV.

This season was my first L.A.M.B. show. I’m calling it a “show” even though technically, it was a presentation, set in the “Box” space – my favorite of the Lincoln Center Fashion Week venues as there’s usually little to no waiting, you can get as close as you want to the clothes and the models obligingly pose for shots.

The presentation was scheduled to start at 2:30p.m, but you wouldn’t have known that from the crowd assembled in the holding area when I arrived at 2:20. Normally tardy editors were in line waiting, snaked around the length of the tent to get what I guessed would be only a very quick glimpse of the latest L.A.M.B. collection and hopefully a look at the chanteuse cum fashion designer herself. [Ms. Stefani was not there, sigh.]

I  wiggled to the front of the 4-deep crowd huddled around the models posing on the white blocks, to scan the 23 looks. There was herringbone plaid, a leather moto jacket, some fun Ikat prints and quite a bit of Noir Jewelry; in short, no huge deviations from the brand’s DNA. Just an hour earlier at lunch with Scott French and Meredith Garcia of The Fashion List at Pain Quotidian, we all agreed that the best designers like writers find their voice and stick with it. Their customers appreciate this; can count on them to deliver the goods. Make no mistake – consistency is not boring, it is an asset.

A few months ago, a stroll on the floor at Nordstrom’s Westchester Mall verified this. Marc Jacobs Mark by Marc and L.A.M.B. stood out, because they didn’t need any store signage to identify them. That odd but adorable tweak like a teeny tiny print on a puff sleeve blouse- must be Marc. Black and white herringbone jackets and red accents? Must be L.A.M.B. – it was.

With all of this in the back of my mind, once finally, inside the Box, my first glimpse revealed black and white, this time as an Ikat print top worn with brown herringbone shorts accessorized with a skinny red belt, and towering platform sandals in black, red and cobalt – very Eighties!

The rock and roll portion of the brand was most apparent in the accessories, hair and makeup, namely a leather and gold shark tooth necklace heavily kohled eyes, straight black brows and a two- tone “Pebbles” from The Flintstones hairdo.

Many of the editors in the Tents were wearing this same up-do, minus the volume and two-tone.

Ms.Stefani hit the preppy trend square on with a v-front cream tennis sweater but unlike the one from your parents’ country club, this one is minus the unflattering bulk. The L.A.M.B sweater boasts fine knit gage stitching, which make it an ideal transition piece. These days, transition pieces are where it’s at. What could be better than playing a set of tennis, taking a shower, putting on the same sweater that you walked on the Courts with and getting-on with your day? There’s something for everyone here, and even one piece will up the fun quotient of your spring wardrobe.

>Naeem Khan’s s/s2011 Collection: Collectible Fashion

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Many of the world’s best fashion designers are men. That’s always puzzled me as they can never actually try on the clothes and truly know what it feels like to wear them. It’s an argument Donna Karan made years ago when she brought out her iconic “five easy pieces” collection of black basics she felt all women needed for their busy lives. Obviously, there is a way around this problem, as there are some very talented male designers, such as Naeem Khan, who know just what their female clientele wants and have loyal followings as a result of getting it right.
In lieu of trying the clothes on for themselves, male designers rely on muses and feedback from the women they design for and retailers such as Neiman’s Ken Downing. Ken’s “girls”, he told us, [pointing to his blackberry] consult and confide in him, and tell him – really tell him – what clothes and accessories they love.

As far as muses go, Naeem has his wife, jewelry designer, Ranjana Khan,
to draw inspiration from on a daily basis, and perhaps, his show stylist, Mary Alice Stephenson. Ranjana is gorgeous and exotic and Mary Alice
is blonde and beautiful in that classic Old Hollywood way. Both women look very different, but both look fantastic in Naeem Khan.

The smart designers listen to “their girls” and deliver strong fashionable collections that move women to faithfully buy every season. Some clients even become collectors. Fashion design is like pulling off the perfect recipe in that there has to be a perfect balance of ingredients.
In our backstage chat, Naeem spoke about his philosophy. “My formula” he stated, is very simple: it’s classic, it’s glamorous, and I keep tweaking, every season. I want to deliver classic, wearable glamour that is so wonderful that it is worthy of collecting. I have lots and lots of women who collect me. People have been collecting these [pointing to a rack of the s/s2011 collection], maybe since the day I started, six or seven years ago.”

As I first replayed our interview, I considered Naeem’s philosophy. The words “classic” and “wearable” do not often go with “glamour”. Classic and wearable are in one camp, and glamour, falls in another. Right?
Naeem Khan, like Oscar de la Renta, is one of those rare designers who have made their careers by consistently delivering drop-dead head turning glamour that’s not even remotely vulgar.
Naeem is very aware of curbing any tendencies of excess. “In my case, because of the clothes being so intricate, you have to be really careful. You can really overdo it. Overdo it – really. When you keep cooking for 30 years, though, you become a master chef. I have to make sure that I give my customer newness every year, and that it’s to the time.”

You need self-confidence to wear one of Mr. Khan’s creations. The list of celebrities who wear Naeem Khan is diverse but all of these women have self-confidence oozing from their pores. Angie Harmon, Elizabeth Hurley,

Michelle Obama,
and Kim Cattrall all project extreme femininity and self-confidence whenever you see them in photographs. Put them in a Naeem Khan dress and the result is that classic glamour that all women look for when they tune in to watch their favorite celebs walk down the Red Carpet. If you’re a basic black girl who’s happy with her five easy pieces, you may want to look elsewhere. If though, you decide that you really are a Naeem Khan woman, rest assured that you will in no shape or form resemble a walking Christmas tree in one of his creations.
Naeem is extremely in tune with his clientele’s horror of looking foolish. “When you make fashion, you have to make clothes for the real woman. I make very very intricate clothing. When you are doing my kind of clothing, my philosophy is clothing has to be real, It’s going to land up in the store, and it has to sell.”

He concluded our interview by saying that one-day, he hopes to have a retrospective of his work.
Maybe in a few decades, the MET’s Costume Institute would have one dedicated to the “Best Oscar Dresses, 1990-2020, featuring Naeem, Oscar, Armani, and Marchesa as some of the period’s top looks.
In the meantime, Naeem’s clients continue to buy and his presence on the Red Carpet continues to grow.

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>High-Low Accessorizing, by Amanda Ross for Carolee

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
I was inspired by a recent conversation with Paul Wilmot in which he sang the praises of “high-low dressing.” He made the point that a white shirt and skinny black pants from the Limited are perfectly acceptable. Going “low” then allows one to splurge on a great designer item from Christian Siriano,or some top of the line skin care
from Nicholas Perricone. This got me thinking about mixing costume and real jewelry in a fearless fashion.
The first fashion icon to use costume jewelry to enhance her overall look was Coco Chanel. Her approach to high-low was innovative and unique. Most of the costume jewelry of the 1920′s was based on the Art Deco aesthetic and mimicked the trends initiated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Brightly colored fruit salad glass stones
imitated the carved precious and semi-precious gemstones used by the fine jewelers, and were combined with rhinestones in geometric patterns. Chanel, typically, went her own way. In 1924, she established a relationship with Maison Gripoix, masters of fine glass jewelry. In 1927, she hired jewelry desigener, Fulco Di Verdura to work with her. Said Verdura,
“She was the first person ever to take me seriously.”
Carolee Friedlander took a page from Chanel’s book and dedicated her career to making great classic costume jewelry. Carolee started making jewelry in 1972 in Greenwich, CT, as a kitchen hobby and grew her eponymous company into an international recognized jewelry and accessories power house. Like Coco,
Carolee follows trends, such as the recent craze in the accessories sector for black jet, which played into Karl Lagerfeld’s The Last Days of Marienbad inspired s/s2011 Chanel collection. Years earlier, Coco herself designed actress Delphine Seyrig’s clothes for the film, and as www.style.com writer, Tim Blanks stated in his review “they were echoed in a final passage of black lace dresses tufted with coq feathers.” If you want to partake in a bit of Marienbad/Chanel glam, Carolee’s Retro Glam 60″ Jet Rope with a flower pin at $75, is a good option.

It’s good to have access to interesting pieces, but many women are flummoxed when it comes to incorporating fun pieces with fine jewelry, and are loathe to look like a jewelry Christmas Tree.
That’s where celebrity fashion stylists such as Amanda Ross fit into the equation.
Amanda was the woman who put together the looks for the heroines in “Lipstick Jungle” – a show I actually miss. These days, Amanda is the Carolee Company’s official style consultant. Her duties include personal appearance working with big high-end retailer, Bloomingdale’s and their personal shopping department to meet with customers and discuss the latest trends with them.

I’ve known Amanda since her days at Self Magazine, and watched her career blossom as she became a go-to celebrity stylist whose credentials include consulting for Dennis Basso, Elie Tahari, as well as being named the first-ever Global stylist for the W Hotel chain.

In spite of all of her multiple duties and travel, Amanda took the time to answer some questions I had regarding her work with Carolee, and how to successfully mix and match costume jewelry into a high-end wardrobe.

TheFE: Most favorite pieces from Carolee. Why are they your faves?

Amanda Ross: The Carolee gold charm pieces are my favorite-the charm bracelet

and coin drop earrings are great for Fall. I love their drop earrings in general. Jet is also huge this season, and Carolee has a whole jet collection– everything from chandelier earrings to rope necklaces. Carolee’s brooches are also great, either clustering several together or pinning them on a chain or leather cord to make a necklace. Carolee’s maltese cross brooch from this season is my favorite. And always lots and lots of pearls!

TheFE: I have to bring-up Coco Chanel and Babe Paley for popularizing the concept of “high-low” accessorizing. Do you think it works with Carolee? Do you agree with the concept, practice for this yourself? For your clients, or not at all?

Amanda: Carolee was the first company to offer a “Chanel” look at an affordable price. I love the idea of mixing costume with real jewels.

TheFE: What can a good stylist such as yourself do for a woman, a man?

Amanda: A great fashion stylist brings out the best in the people they dress, enhancing confidence while educating on one’s own personal style.

TheFE: When employing/searching for the right stylist, what questions should they ask you?

Amanda: “What is your vision for me?”

TheFE: What is the #1/most frequently asked question your clients ask you?

Amanda: “How do I look?”

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>Summertime is Dress Time – Taylor Swift Shines in Contrarian’s

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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Country music is my least favorite form of music. That said, I DO care about what the female crooners are wearing and have some suggestions. Top of the list are TAYLOR SWIFT and MILEY CYRUS. It all started with an image Deanna of Industry Publicity sent me regarding the CONTRARIAN label, of TAYLOR SWIFT in one of their dresses. Here stylist, SANDI SPIKA is doing a wonderful job of shifting the perception that country music stars only dress in cheesy fringe outfits accessorized by cowboy boots. We’ve come a long way baby, since the days of Dolly Parton.
I wondered why other young starlets, namely Miley, still look down market. I’m not talking about the Red Carpet; I’m talking about everyday dressing. A dress’ best quality is that it’s EASY. There’s NOTHING to ponder. As DIANE VON [FURSTENBERG] famously said, “You just put it on and go.” It turns out, [watch the video] that Taylor loves dresses and fesses up to owning, “probably over 100 sundresses”.

Every woman can use a good dress though, especially one that’s well under $500.

Contrarian offers two versatile summer dresses from the Spring/Summer 2010 Collection. The first, a white adjustable one, can be worn several ways, as the adjustable drawstrings can create a dramatic bushel skirt, or when loosened, fall elegantly at your side. The second, a purple bibb dress has a sexy backless look with a plunging neckline. Dress it up as Taylor Swift did when she wore it to the Brooks and Dunn Concert on April 19th.
I’d love to see Miley in some Contrarian dresses, soon.

*White dress – $378
Purple dress – $450
To view more designs, visit www.contrariannewyork.com

Weight-in on this post! It is:

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