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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Pictorial of the Week: the December 27 – January 3 week at a glance
I just LOOOVE a mellow New Year’s Eve. The last time I was into “the scene” on Dec. 31st was at a long-ago “Oui Magazine” party at a penthouse loft somewhere in Downtown NYC circa 1986. Don’t ask why I was there but after THAT I know how Truman Capote and Jay McInerney felt as the “social chroniclers” of their respective decades. I’ve put Party of the Century by Deborah Davis, in my www.Amazon.com cart and can’t wait to pore over the black and white images from Mr. Capotes’s famous party, which he threw for himself to celebrate his mega hit In Cold Blood in 1966 and an example of what an “A-List Party” really means. If you were an “anyone” ie: Frank Sinatra, Mia Farrow, Babe Paley, Slim Keith, C.Z. Guest, you got to go. If not, forget it. Mr. McInerney capture the debauched preppy zeitgest of NYC in the Eighties like nothing else I’ve ever read. Michael Fox did a nice job in depicting the lost unnamed character [presumably Mr. McInerney] in the film version. If you haven’t seen it, do.
New Year’s Eve was the chance to finally wear all of the vintage goodies I’d accumulated on that particular HUnt. The days after were about avoiding boring football games on TV, catching-up on some movies [Valley of the Dolls, True Grit, Marcello Mastroianni's A Slightly Pregnant Man, and Salt.] We finally made it to the Westchester Mall to see
what big designers had on sale. Neiman’s was disappointing in that merch was only 33% off. Bad for me, but perhaps a sign that the economy is cautiously creeping back up, at least at this level of the population. Just last year, high-end retailers were slashing prices to the bone, past 60% to get their well-heeled customers back in the door. In any event, it was fun trying on a candy pink Oscar de la Renta fur vest, and a few Marc Jacobs coats – just because.
The week ended well – I discovered butter London “Mistress Champagne” Luxury Lotion in Adam Broderick’s Salon, where I went-by to ask about CND’s new gel nails. I passed on the gels but went home with the big 200 ml bottle of “Mistress” for $18. My new paraben-free and vegan lotion got me excited about what nail magic b.L’s Nonie Creme will be performing backstage at NYFW next month.
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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Over the years, I’ve developed a lasting obsession with coffee table books published by Taschen, Abbeville Press, Abrams, and most recently, Assouline, after meeting M. Assouline at Book Expo in LA. two years ago. Although I will always love fashion and continue to report on it, my taste for clothes has veered to classic “basics”: cashmere pullovers, oversize turtlenecks, LaCoste shirts, moccasins, dark jeans and lots of well cut navy and black jackets. What really interests me on a personal level now is fine jewelry and books. Those items are always on my list to Santa.
Sometimes, I can’t wait for Santa to check his list and I throw caution to the wind. The home office book shelf is groaning under the weight of the books I’ve collected. It all started when my friend, Laura Wood, my agent at Fine Print Literary Managment, gifted me Pucci – A Renaissance in Fashion, by Shirley Kennedy. I’ve consigned many designer bags, shoes, and clothes over the years, but I have never parted with a single of my precious coffee table tomes. In a recent conversation with Paul Wilmot, we reflected on the decline of magazine print, but cheered up when we began discussing the tactile delights of spending time with our favorite coffee table books. Last year, I went through an interiors book kick, spurred by a conversation with Interior Decorator friend, Demi Schimenti, who thought my newly decorated home was “a little bit Bunny Williams”. That evening, I ordered: Bunny Williams’ Point of View, by Dan Shaw, New Paris Interiors, edited by Angelika Taschen, Eileen Gray by Philippe Garner. The year before, it was jewelry: Verdura, by Patricia Corbet, Seaman Schepps by Amanda Vaill and Janet Zapata, and Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair With Jewelry, by Francois Curiel.
2010 is about fashion designers and fashion icons. The chase started with my coming across Brendan Gill’s Tallulah [Holt, Reinhard and Winston, Inc.], which was in an antique dealer friend’s [Cromlix & Co.] delicious cache of treasures he sells from his barn-showroom. I was there to pick up a vintage Little Red Riding Hood Cape I’d fallen in love with on my previous visit and had come back to buy. Bending over to inspect an emerald green chaise longue, I saw the Tallulah Bankhead book on the shelf and grabbed it. Tallulah’s one of those style icons fashion designers never tire of referencing and flat Internet images were not enough for me.
Although she Tallulah Bankhead was undeniably a talented actress, it was the images that had me captivated, especially those of her shot by Cecil Beaton, one of fashion’s most stylish photographers ever.
Mr. Beaton had a dream career which included working as a staff photographer for Vanity Fair and Vogue, photographing celebrities in Hollywood, and later serving as the official photographer to the Royal Family. Assouline has published a book that will be the perfect choice for your most discerning fashion friend, just in time for Christmas.As the Assouline press release states, “Mr. Beaton was instrumental in inventing the cult of the celebrity image while pushing the boundaries of his art form with innovative techniques and staging”.
Inside this book, are Beaton’s clippings from magazines, newspapers, and playbills, which give you insight into this remarkable photographer’s creative process. THis is the first time they’ve been reproduced. “To flip through the pages is to enter a fabulous and surreal party where Tallulah Bankhead rubs shoulders with a bust of Voltaire and a portrait of Stravinsky; where Beaton’s first trip on the Queen Mary coincides with Queen Elizabeth’s coronation.”
The book is more than just a collection of great images. What sets this one apart is that flipping through, you see how Beaton’s scrapbooks allowed him to play with pictures he had taken (and perhaps those he wished he had) “in the dreamspace of artifice that was always his favorite setting.” It really is the precursor to the modern day “mood board” all fashion designers have in their studios. To view inside the Beaton book, cut and paste this special hotlink into your browser: http://www.shopassouline.com/9782759404728.html A handbag or cashmere sweater is all well and fine, but a book such as Cecil Beaton – The Art of the Scrapbook, like a diamond, is forever.
Details and Where to Purchase
Cloth over board in slipcase • $250 • 210€ • 170£ • 392 pages • 11.5” x 14.4” • 29 x 36.5 cm • 218 illustrations ISBN – 9782759404728
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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY Labor Day’s around the corner, and with it comes Indian summer. While I absolutely love these last few weeks of warm weather, it always gets me thinking about how to fortify my skin for the tough winter ahead, and what kind of makeup I should wear for fall, once my skin’s in tip top shape.
Before even considering color trends, start with EXFOLIATION. This is especially important if you’re guilty of having indulged in too much pool time these past few months. EXFOLIATION is 1st + foremost. I love FEMME SCIENCE’S NEW FACE MASK. It’s got green tea [a trendy ingredient], Kelp, Tea Tree, Rosemary and Witch Hazel in it. The antioxidants did a very nice job clarifying my skin. After 2 treatments, I looked as if I’d just had an hour-long facial. Women’s skincare is new to the more established MENSCIENCE ANDROCEUTICALS Co, but if they keep rolling-out products as good as this mask, FEMME SCIENCE will capture a slice of the women’s market as effectively as MENSCIENCE did in the mens’ grooming arena. Free shipping for orders over $40 and their rapid-fire shipping policy is a big plus. www.menscience.comand www.femmescience.com
NEXT, even though your skin already feels great, it’s time to start using a heavier moisturizer, to prep your skin for the coming weather. My new fave in the MOISTURIZING department is SHU UEMURA’s PHYTO-BLACK LIFT FIRMING ANTI-WRINKLE CREAM. It’s rich and you feel the moisture, thanks to the plethora of natural oils in it. If you’re ultra-dry like me – or have “normal skin”, this is the one to get. I discovered PHYTO-BLACK thanks to a summer visit to Farmington, CT, home of MISS PORTER’S SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. While desperately seeking a Starbucks, I stumbled onto this beauty junkies’ nirvana. KZEN BEAUTY is THE PLACE to go if you’re seeking quality skin care, fabulous makeup and top shelf customer service. Better yet, KZEN BEAUTY is running a huge sale so don’t waste any time and start picking up some deals right now. Their summer clearance is on – how does 75% off sound? Also, spend $30 and you get a jar of SHU’s PHYTO BLACK for FREE.
Another fun feature – and why I spent close to 2 hours there on my visit, was that they’re always running little events that are too good to say “no” to. The next round of events conflict with NY Fashion Week, but if you’re not at the Tents, make it your mission to get over to Farmington if you can or at least visit their site at www.kzenbeauty.com. Coming up at KZEN: Appleseed resurfacing peels, facials, microdermabrasion and much more.
Now that my skin’s feeling up to snuff, after poring over the big 3 [Vogue, Harper’s, and W], I’m going to go for the red lip as my fall makeup statement. W’s September “TRUE BLOOD” spread shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott and featuring LINDSAY WIXSON’s delicious gap-toothed smile, is visual eye candy, but I’ll be keeping it on the lighter side. I’m leaning towards dropping into BEAUTY 360 and trying on LOLA’s PLUMPING LIPS “MARILYN” lipstick, in a bright cherry red for the days I’m feeling a little “MARILYN” and am going for fall’s LADY LIKE TREND For TWIGGY days, I’ll go with my new spiky POP falsie lashes and a dash of CHANEL sparkly nude gloss in #93 and it’s a more MINIMALIST TROUSERS AND SOFT SHIRT day. For days [and there’s always one] during fashion week, when I just wear jeans, a tee and a blazer, either of these two classic beauty looks work. Whatever look you go with, don’t forget to always have your BROWNS perfectly groomed. Beauty gurus have been going on forever about how “brows frame your face”. Just look at how much attention has been paid to famous brows over the years: Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Liz Taylor, Brooke Shields. BROW QUEEN, ANASTASIA [Soare], MAKES IT EASY TO ACHIEVE PERFECT-LOOKING BROWS WITH HER EASY TO USE 5-ELEMENTS BROW KIT. She’s debuting it today, on HSN at 2:00 and 8:00p.m.EST.
Beauty 360 products are available on their parents’ website, www.cvs.com NEXT UP: MEN’S GROOMING TRENDS FOR FALL
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TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY Okay, I’ll admit it. As a dyed-in-the wool fashionista, my relationship vis a vis Forever 21 is bipolar.
I’ll grudgingly admit that a trip to the mall necessitates a trip to THE MUCH-MALIGNED FOREVER 21. Fellow-blogger, ABE GURKO, recently blogged about the bennies of RETAIL THERAPY on www.imeanwhat.com which also ran in www.huffingtonpost.com.
While Abe hit THE EMOTIONAL PLUSSES OF RETAIL THERAPY, KNOW THIS – RETAIL THERAPY COMES AT ALL PRICE POINTS. It can be that gorgeous periwinkle blue and cream wool rug I scored at an estate sale in Lakevillle, CT for $100, or a WHITE CHANEL 2.55 bag, as seen in the SEPTEMBER 2010 ISSUE OF HARPER’S BAZAAR. If a 2.55 is not in your price range, and you’re not in the estate sale loop, YOUR RETAIL THERAPY FIX CAN BE A SCORE AT FOREVER21 THAT’S EQUIVALENT TO THE COST OF 4 GRANDE LATTES AT STARBUCKS.
Back to Forever 21 – I like to shop as I read magazines – JAPANESE STYLE, FROM BACK TO FRONT. Shoved way in the back by the dressing rooms were black jersey tops with overly encrusted bling on the shoulders- so last year or the blue metallic micro-mini dress. Ugh.
The front of the store presented a complete about-face. FOREVER SEEMS TO BE BETTING ON THE BASICS- dark jeans, gray hoodies, old skool tees, with Hello Kitty in the starring role. To think of it, Chanel’s 2.55 is a classic – WHAT IS NEW HERE? THE MESSAGE SEEMS TO BE: WE’RE PLAYING IT SAFE FOR FALL. Even those who don’t religiously tune into CRAMER’s hit show, “Mad Money”, at 6p.m. EST [I'm addicted to www.cnbc.com ] have a clue that the economy IS NOT improving in a major way any time soon. Regardless, the girls AND moms are buying, and as PORTS 1961’S VP of Publicity and Marketing told me earlier this week over lunch, at the 26th Street Showroom, “ SALES – THAT’S WHAT THIS [PR] IS REALLY ALL ABOUT AND THAT’S WHAT REALLY COUNTS IN THE END.”
To read more about what Tony has to say about what it takes to be a top New York publicist, read Sharon Feiereisen’s piece, “Fashion Industry Insider: Tony Alcindor, Publicist”, www.thefashionspot.com
Amsterdam native, JULIETTE BOOKER, is a young jewelry designer who’s one to watch. HER COMPANY, SOHO HEARTS, offers a superb selection of eye-catching jewelry designs, many named for fashion icons and fashion notables, such as ‘Audrey’ [Hepburn or Tatou?] and ‘Scarlett’ [could be O’Hara or Johansson].She’s figured out a way to create retro designs that are young and fresh and appeal to everyone from the tween set to “women of a certain age” who want to have fun with jewelry without being afraid to lose something that will get their insurance companies squawking should they lose it.
Juliette’s company, Soho Hearts, presents a dazzling collection of luxurious, stylish and trendy jewelry in an abundance of color, texture with a strong very of-the-moment RETRO VIBE. She’s already squarely on the radar screen in her native Holland. She’s got KELLY CUTRONE’S team at PEOPLE’S REVOLUTION handling her PR from New York, so it’s only a matter of time that with their editing talent, that we’ll be hearing a lot more of her here Stateside. After I spend the day deliberating, I’ll be putting in an order for my first piece of SOHO HEARTS. Once done, I’ll have joined the ranks of “Soho Famous” who wear Juliette’s pieces, such as Kate Moss, Tyra Banks, Christina Aguilera, Mickey Rourke and yes, Paris Hilton. I’m torn between two designs, the first being the groovily retro “Audrey Bracelet”. This elastic bracelet is made out of two different sizes of cream Swarovski pearls with a matte gold metal bow in the middle. It’s the perfect piece when you want to reference a tiny bit of ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ in a non-obvious way. [Style # 10072-B, $24.95] The other option is the Fareeda Ring, a gold plated adjustable ring with a purple colored stone made from glass surrounded by blue enamel. It’s the sophisticated fashion version of the famous EVIL EYE, that’s just too hippie for this stage of my life. [ Style #50018-A, $39.95] In future, I’d love to see some designs based on today’s bold fashion icons, such as the fun-loving MOUNA AYOUB’s larger than life jewels. AT this time, Soho Hearts is only available online, but with great PR and an eventually improving economy, who’s to say there wouldn’t be a cute little free-standing store in the coolest parts of town in New York and LA? What IS certain is that when I’m in Amsterdam next year for Amsterdam Fashion Week, I’ll be sure to schedule an appointment to meet with this promising young design talent.
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Some of the most fun parts of my few short days during this latest Miami Fashion Week took place not at the actual shows, but in-between events. Saturday night was a long day, a day at the laptop and a botched opportunity to meet KENDRA WILKINSON followed by the now-it’s really getting old chaos at the door of each and every show. Sometime between the True Religion and Ed Hardy shows, Clarasonic’s fabulous HELEN MILLER, got me in for a full facial treatment with the Clarasonic wand/brush system. The whole treatment, took under 10 minutes and I got off the spa bed in the back of the booth and inspected my face in the magnified mirror the technician put in my hands. The fine lines around my eyes did not disappear but my skin DID feel significantly more hydrated, as if my tight pores had suddenly opened up and allowed much-needed moisture in. Mind you, this was after only one treatment. The key here is daily use, much like oral hygiene. If you floss, you’ll keep the tartar build-up away. If you use CLARISONIC, you’ll gradually get rid of the build-up on your skin, and the products you use will penetrate and actually do what they’re supposed to do. After relaxing and chatting with Helen and a stiff sea breeze cocktail, I reluctantly pulled myself away and peeked over to see if I could get in some eye-makeup tips over at the MAKEUP FOR EVER. I passed on the free touch up booth, as the line was overly long. Instead, I reapplied my latest favorite products, MAKE-UP DESIGNORY’S “Mahogany Lip Pencil [tremendous staying power] topped with BECCA’s new GLOSSY LIP TINT in “MARSALA”. I was one of the few women at the Raleigh with “grown-up lips” on, ie: not stripper-like sticky candyfloss pink gloss on. My nails, which I painted in the room with NAILTINI’s “BORDEAUX” held-up beautifully, despite the cloying Miami heat and humidity – no chipping here. Because I left early, I missed-out on seeing my favorite model of today’s generation – HILARY RHODA – have some fun demoing MERCEDES-BENZ’s between shows, when she got behind the wheel and played Gran Turismo 5 poolside, at the Raleigh. She was there to join Lisa Vogel, creative director of LUXE and co-president of RAJ Manufacturing, to Raise Money for Oceana to Raise Money for Oceana, the largest international organization focused solely on protecting the world’s oceans.
SHOPPING NOTES: Shop Beauty360.com for 20% off all your suncare and skincare purchases! Your readers can save while they stock up on their favorite sunscreens and moisturizers from their favorite prestige beauty brands, just by entering coupon code GLOW at checkout. Shoppers will also receive free shipping if they spend $49 or more. This promotion is only valid until Sunday, July 25th so start shopping now! Click on this link for additional details and products: http://tinyurl.com/337cyau
CLARISONIC is THE ORIGINAL Sonic Skin Care System, and Sonicare is a registered trademark of Philips Oral Healthcare Inc. The system is available at www.sephora.com With this as with anything else, get the ORIGINAL, not a shoddy copy – your skin is worth it.
The first words that came to my mind while watching this were, ‘haunting and moving’. Ford succeeds in establishing a deep personal connection regardless of your sexual orientation. Sex actually, has to my surprise, very little to do with what’s at the core of this movie. To summarize, COLIN FIRTH, plays the lead character – a man who’ s emotionally adrift once his partner of 16 years suddenly dies. While he predictably goes down the road of contemplating a few flings with handsome boys 20 years his junior, and even a liaison with his best female friend [JULIANNE MOORE], nothing can replace the big gaping hole in his heart. In a heart-wrenching twist of fate, on his last day of life, Firth decides to let go of his past, after a moonlight swim with his handsome student. The shocker comes when Firth falls asleep [alone] only to wake-up to die of a heart attack. I’ll admit I had preconceived notions, namely that this film would be slick and glossy, as Ford himself appears. Perhaps though, that’s just what lays on the surface, and as with the film, there’s much more below the glossy surface image Ford presents to the world. While I’m still hoping Ford will come back and design for Gucci again, I’m also hoping he’ll continue to make films such as this. TWO THUMBS UP
Being half-French, it’s a given that I love Chanel. What’s not to love? Coco was a character and one smart cookie, if we’re to believe the story line in “Before Coco”. That little black dress, tweed jacket and quilted handbag with the chain link strap, and “junk jewelry” have risen to the top of the heap in the “timeless classics” category. Coco was great, but it was KARL who breathed life back into the ailing house. Under his watch, the stylistic tweaks he gives the classics are enough to provide the necessary newness retailers demand, season after season. Once upon a time, there were the spring, fall, holiday, and resort collections. Now, there are multiple pre-spring and fall collections – enough to make your head spin, like Linda Blair in “The Exorcist”.
As far as the short flick, “REMEMBER NOW” Karl created for cruise 2011, watch it, but know that the punch line comes at the very end, when Karl himself appears. If you’re TRULY pressed for time, allot 6 minutes at the end and watch the party dying down and the Kaiser’s arrival. [You’ll have to watch the full version, on www.chanel.com
Regardless of my irritation with the studied aimlessness of the fashion jet set, model/actress, ELISA SEDNAOUI in particular, as depicted in the film, I’m enough of a Chanel/Karl fan to still want to participate, albeit, in my own, indie way. That translates to a mini- spree with my Mother at the Chanel counter at the Danbury Square Mall’s Macy’s CHANEL counter.
Although the counter manager and Maman said I looked like a young-ish Coco Chanel, I nixed the bright red shade, and walked away with “Rouge Coco” formula #11 Legende [pink] and #132 [pink-mauve gloss] and the last bottle of #509 nail polish in “Paradoxal”. Okay, that is NOT really a word, and the gray color looks unattractive in the bottle, but strangely compelling, not unlike the color of wet cement, in the bottle. Once it’s on your nails however, the Chanel magic kicks-in. For under $100, it’s worth every penny to feel this pampered and luxurious, and to be able to pretend you’re part of Karls’ jet set world on the Cote D’Azur.
TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY Patti Smith’s ‘Because the Night’ – you’ve got your foot in the grave if this doesn’t evoke an emotion in you. Running home and listening to her on You-Tube was the first thing I did after getting home from previewing the Ports1961 Resort Collection. I’m a lucky girl. Lucky in that Tony Alcindor, Ports’ uber-gracious [and fun to hang out with] VP of Communications, let me take a sneak peak the day before the show. The show was, of course, great – heard that a week later from blogger buddy Judi Ecochard. Ports’ resort shows always are, and beat-out the big-deal spring and fall shows.
I love nothing more in fashion than the scene backstage and to see the creative process in action. The day before, they were busy setting the mood for show. Patti’s voice was on the speakers, speaking though, not singing. I got to roam about the racks and draw my own conclusions before going into Tony’s office to chat for a few minutes. The eighties references were all there, hanging on the racks. The muse, his assistant told me, was PATTI SMITH. Of course! The easy separates, flowing dresses and pinprick size perforation treatment on the leathers all spelled P-A-T-T-I. Other telling details were grommets and the cobalt blue. Everyone in the eighties owned at least one thing in this “it” color. While I liked the structured pieces for work, cocktails, I LOVED the easy flowing black black dresses w/ a plasticized finish. These pieces are meant for living and like the new resort, serve you year round not just for a quick Caribbean get-away. The deep armholes gave the tees Patti wore rockstar status 20 odd years back, and now Tia’s given it to us in a more refined version.
Patti’s an interesting fashion muse. Even young, you couldn’t call her “beautiful” as many icons were [Grace Kelly, Babe Paley,Marilyn Monroe, Liz Taylor] but Jane Birkin, Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy weren’t gorgeous either, but they WERE captivating and unforgettable. Patti falls in that category, no question. It’s hard to beat her muse resume – roommate of Robert Mapplethorpe, and a rock icon.
I left the studio with the inspiration statement that would be on the seats the following day. I wish I had the space to copy the whole thing, as this one was really well-done and totally on target. Nice job – Ports team! Here though, is a snippet I have to share with you. “Inspired by paradox and contradiction, Tia Cibani takes pre-spring 2011/resort to a state of fragile poetry enhanced by the rocker’s edge, where masculine and feminie boundaries are blurred, resulting in a unique and modern androgyny.”